REVIEWS

Crystal Thai

Best Bargain
Thai Arlington Forest 4819 Arlington Boulevard Arlington, VA 703-522-1311
"Open for lunch and dinner daily. Dinner until 10:30 pm Monday through Thursday, until 11 pm Friday and Saturday, 9 Sunday.

A bridge between modern thai and hole-in-the-wall ethnic, this lively dining room goes for casual elegance with crystal votives and chandeliers, white tablecloths, and a fresh stem on every table. Food is elegant, too, without being bland. Mind the stars designating hot and spicy. This kitchen means it, though they are willing to let you have it your way. Salads all get a star--for their heat and their invention. Three of the best: classic larb nua with beef, lime juice and chili peppers; a toss of crispy puffed catfish; and grilled shrimp with lemongrass. Shrimp also demands attention as a starter: You can get it stuffed with pork and wrapped in bean-curd skin or deep-fried and swathed with seaweed. When soft-shell crabs are in season, the restaurant offers several variations. All shine, but the one with chili sauce and basil gets the most oohs and ahhs. Whole-fish dishes like crispy flounder are also well turned out. If seafood doesn't do it for you, honey-roasted duck, green chicken curry, and broccoli in oyster sauce are good alternatives.

Washingtonian, June 1998

Additional Review (June 2001)

Additional Review (June 2000)

Additional Review (June 1999)

Additional Review (September 1997)

Additional Review (June 1997)